Street Wars NYC

Street Wars NYC

Con la creciente popupalidad de los juegos de escaramuzas, probablemente debida a la reducida cantidad de miniaturas que necesitan y/o a lo cortas que son las partidas, Funky Skull games nos trae algo fresco: guerras callejeras en la Nueva York de los años 70. ¡Si eres fan de la pelicula Warrior, este es tu juego! Los que están detrás de este nuevo proyecto de minaturas son también jugadores como nosotros, quienes han decidido dar un paso adelante y sacar su propio juego utilizando este Kickstarter que arranca hoy. Aunque se pueden jugar partidas sueltas entre dos o más jugadores, la idea es jugar una campaña donde empezamos con una banda de cinco miembros. A medida que avancemos en la campaña iremos conquistando más vecindarios y lugares estratégicos, de donde obtendremos generosos ingresos con la venta de farlopa o a cambio de proteger a los negocios locales. Con este dinero, aumentaremos nuestra influencia en la ciudad; y por supuesto, el tamaño de nuestra banda de gánsters (recomiendan no usar más de 15 miniaturas). Pero ojo, no estaremos solos en la ciudad. Tendremos que luchar contra bandas rivales para agrandar nuestros territorios y hacer que la mera mención del nombre de nue stra banda acobarde el corazón de nuestros enemigos. Si os interesa leer un poco más sobre las reglas, han colgado en su KS una intro. Podéis verla en este enlace. Con el kickstarter los chicos de Funky Skull games nos ofrecen dos bandas con las que empezar: los Black Cobra y los Devils Outcast. Ocho miniaturas esculpidas por escultores de renombre en el mundillo del wargame, las cuales recuerdan...
BMP1 in Syrian service (1973): masking with Blu-Tack

BMP1 in Syrian service (1973): masking with Blu-Tack

Auto adhesives putties, such as Blu-Tack or Silly Puty, are tremendously useful tools to simulate camouflages of hard edges in small scales. They are like plasticine, but they are not oily and are easy to handle. The soviet BMP1 is considered the first Infantry Combat Vehicle (Boyevaya Mashina Pekhoty, BMP) and it appears in the seventies. It has been in service in almost 50 different countries, playing an important role in the new battle systems where the armoured infantry armoured are key pieces. One of these countries was Syria, who used widely this vehicle during the Yom Kipur war. After search some information on the net, finally I adopted the following camouflage: yellow-orange and grey strypes on an olive green surface. This 15mm model is from Khurasan Miniatures. Once selected the camouflage, I started painting the dominant color, the olive green. I decided to use the olive drab set from Ammo of Mig Jimenez, but only the four intermediate colors. That’s, I didn’t use the maximum shadow and maximum light, since I consider in this scale we don’t need too many different tones. Indeed probably four are too many. Now I start preparing the second camouflage color, the yellow-orange. But first I have to mask part of the tank with Blu-tack. I take some portions of the putty and I apply them in long segments, laterally across the tank. I use the edge of a brush or toothpick to flatten the edges. Then I airbrush the second color. I’ve use an oxide tone mixed with dunkelgelb base, both from Ammo of Mig. Then, I repeat exactly the same work...
Irishserb 15mm M1114 Humvee .50cal

Irishserb 15mm M1114 Humvee .50cal

Today I’ve finished two little US Humvees from Irishserb. They came with hatch and .50 cal machineguns. What gorgeous minis! The models were a gift from Rubén, thanks for them! They’re resin, handmade with good detail and manufacturing. You can see more models in his web: Irishserb. They doesn’t have any mold lines and only some green stuff is needed in very few points. Nice and cheap!! Totally recommended. The base color is Tamiya XF-78 Wooden Deck Tan. For the highlight, I mix it with pure white, again from Tamiya. When I finished the modulation, I found that the color was a little pale, so I made a filter: Tamiya XF-59 Desert Yellow mixed in a proportion of 1 part paint 5 parts alcohol (1:5). I applied it with an airbrush in very thin layers (2 of them). With that, the base color gain a more yellowish color, making the model more ‘real’ without removing the underlying paint. It’s VERY important to dilute the paint of this filter in a great proportion (1:5 minimum), so we don’t cover the earlier highlight work wich has take us so much time!! The detail of the green door was an idea of Pecadolr, a friend from the forum. Thanks for it Ricardo! It adds a nice color touch to the vehicles. It represents a spare part not available in the original desert color. The triangle mark was done with a Tamiya masking tape, cut to shape. The front metal protection bars were done by scratch with electronic cables. In future posts I’ll show some steps of the painting and weathering process, but...