Pintando miniaturas en masa

Pintando miniaturas en masa

Pedro nos enseña los trucos y entresijos de pintar en masa. También conocido como pintar en serie, el arte de pintar en masa es imprescindible para poder seguirle el ritmo a nuestro ansia de consumismo lúdico. Las claves de la pintura en masa se resumen en las siguientes: Técnicas sencillas y dominadas. Mínimo número de capas. Organizar las figuras por colores y capas a aplicar. Lo más habitual es pintar en masa un ejército (como la marea roja de khorne) pero podemos pintar en masa prácticamente cualquier juego (zombicide, bloodrage, guerra del anillo, …) Cuando dominéis los procesos para pintar en masa podéis llegar a pintar 100 miniaturas en un mes dedicando 1 hora diaria o incluso menos. El tiempo medio por miniatura puede quedarse en menos de 30 minutos (dependiendo de la mini) y aún así mantener una buena calidad. Los pasos a seguir son los mismos que para pintar cualquier miniatura: 1. Conoce y prepara tus figuras. Es esencial conocer las figuras que vamos a pintar e ir imaginando cómo vamos a hacerlo, con qué colores y en qué orden. Si estás pintando figuras que requieren montaje, al pegar sus piezas es buen momento para ir conociéndolas. Si no requieren montaje, es conveniente ir observándolas una a una para quitar las posibles líneas de molde e ir conociendo las figuras. 2. Elige la imprimación correcta. Lo más rápido para pintar en masa es imprimar a spray, sin embargo no es lo más económico ni lo que ofrece mejores resultados. Si ya tienes un aerógrafo y lo dominas imprimar con él es bastante sencillo y no lleva más...
Suplemento para SAGA – Aetius&Artorius

Suplemento para SAGA – Aetius&Artorius

Hace unos meses los chicos de Proyecto Cruz nos trajeron traducido al castellano el juego SAGA, convirtiendo el sueño de muchos en realidad. Y para alegría nuestra, ahora nos traen la nueva expansión de nuevo castellano para ambientar nuestras partidas de SAGA en la época artúrica: SAGA – Aetius&Artorius. El nuevo libro, encuadernado con pastas duras y una maquetación exquisita, incluye los battleboard y las reglas de seis nuevas facciones con las que representar los conflictos de la época: Romanos (tardíos), Britanos, Sajones, Pictos, Hunos y Godos. Además, la segunda parte del libro recoge varias actualizaciones de bandas que aparecieron en el libro SAGA: La Edad de los Vikingos, para que podamos usarlas en batallas de la “Edad de las Invasiones”; junto a varias unidades de mercenarios que podremos añadir a nuestros ejércitos. Finalmente, el libro se cierra con cuatro nuevos escenarios y una campaña para dos jugadores donde un solitario puesto fronterizo tiene que rechazar hordas de asaltantes bárbaros. Como colofón, han incluido en el manual una hoja de referencia rápida suelta que nos será muy útil durante nuestras partidas; y por si fuera poco, ¡una miniatura gratis! Para poder usar este libro necesitaremos tener el primer libro de SAGA en nuestras manos. Interesantemente, en el interior se menciona que si queremos podremos utilizar las nuevas bandas para luchar contra cualquiera de las q ue han sido previamente publicadas, si bien nos advierten de que pueden haber ciertos problemas de balanceo. Por otro lado, destacar que los mercenarios suponen “mini-facciones” de donde podemos reclutar ciertas unidades por el coste de 1 punto al comienzo del juego. Es una...
Entrevista – James Wappel

Entrevista – James Wappel

In English below. ¡Hola muchachos! Estrenamos nueva sección en el blog para presentaros a grandes personajes de la pintura, fabricantes de miniaturas, diseñadores de juegos y muchos más. Normalmente solo conocemos una faceta de estos grandes, y es aquella que vemos por ejemplo en su perfil de Facebook o Instagram, donde suben fotos de sus miniaturas o productos. Pero desconocemos todo lo que hay detrás de esas fotos. Nos gustaría descubriros con una serie de entrevistas lo que hay detrás; y además de ser interesante, siempre podemos aprender algo nuevo para aplicar en nuestra forma de trabajar (¡y de vivir!). Esperamos que sea de vuestro interés este nuevo contenido y que disfrutéis de él tanto como nosotros lo hemos hecho preparándolo. Hoy os traemos a un pintor de miniatures americano, James Wappel; cuyo estilo de pintura tan personal es inconfundible y super llamativo. Es interesante ver la evolución de este pintor, que saltó de pintar en 2D a pintar miniaturas en 3D conservando las técnicas y estilo que utilizaba previamente. No es muy común ver este fenómeno en nuestro mundillo de miniaturas, y el resultado es espectacular. Blog de Wappel: http://wappellious.blogspot.com También podéis ver las docenas de videos de pintura que James ha subido a su canal de YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXqIo-UMSr8 Cuéntanos algo sobre ti Mi nombre es James Wappel y el arte ha sido una parte de mi vida muy importante desde que tengo noción del tiempo. Ha estado siempre involucrado en todo aquello que he hecho. Como artista, mi enseñanza se centró en acuarelas, pasteles y óleos. Además, a veces me dedico a la enseñanza y hago de ponencias de...
X-Wing – Naves contrabandistas customizadas

X-Wing – Naves contrabandistas customizadas

Miguel tiene un compañero en su trabajo, Edu, que es un auténtico fanático de X-Wing. No solo se apunta a todos los torneos que puede (1-2 por fin de semana se come seguro), si no que siempre está pensando nuevas listas para jugar. Y lo que mola es que muchas veces hace listas temáticas, no que sean reventonas. Como también le gusta personalizar sus naves, en este caso le pidió a otro compañero de Miguel, Javi (muchos le conoceréis como Wally) que le pintase sus naves de contrabandistas en un color similar y llamativo. Y Javi ha realizado un trabajo magnífico, por supuesto, que ahora os mostramos. Seguro que los rivales de Edu en los torneos se quedan embobados con sus naves verde jade danzando por todo el tablero entregando amor en forma de turboláseres… os dejamos con las palabras del propio Edu explicando la lista con las dos primeras naves pintadas: La lista esta formada por las naves YV-666 y la nave de persecución Clase Lancero. El YV-666 lleva como piloto a Bossk y tiene las siguientes cartas de mejora: Intrepidez Cañón Mutilador Contramedidas Zuckuss Dengar Dengar 4-LOM La nave de persecución Clase Lancero está pilotada por Asajj Ventress y tiene las siguientes cartas de mejora: Máximo esfuerzo Estabilización giroscópica Latts Razzi Sombra Alargada Amortiguadores de inercia Brillestim Aunque aparentemente ambas naves tienen sistemas de movimiento completamente opuestos entre sí, realmente son muy compatibles, ya que donde una tienen maniobras verdes, la otra las tiene blancas y así pueden ir parejas cubriéndose una a la otra. Bossk está diseñado para realizar el máximo daño posible en el menor...
Age of Sigmar – Etapa 1

Age of Sigmar – Etapa 1

¡Buenas tardes a todos! Acaba de terminar el primer mes de la escalada de pintura de los Siete Señores de la Guerra. En general todos le hemos dedicado bastante tiempo y estamos contentos con los resultados. Lo que vamos a hacer para llevar la cuenta mes a mes de lo que llevamos pintado hasta el momento, es dibujar unas barras de progreso con el porcentaje total en puntos que llevamos pintado cada uno. Así, el 100% de la barra serán los 2000 puntos objetivo. Por supuesto, cada Señor de la Guerra irá avanzando en puntos a su ritmo, ya que no es lo mismo pintar un mes una unidad de 10 Decimators (400 puntos) que un pequeñito Grot Shaman (60 puntitos de nada). Pero al final, todos debemos terminar con la barra de progreso al 100%, con unos ejércitos muy bonitos y que repartan muchas tortitas ricas… Pues comenzamos a ver las unidades pintadas de cada uno de los Siete Señores de la Guerra del MES 1: Chuso se decidió por una unidad básica de 5 Liberators para empezar con su ejército de Stormcast Eternals. Formarán el núcleo principal de su formación junto a otra unidad que ya tiene preparada para Febrero y el Lord Celestant. El carnosaurio cubrirá tanto la necesidad de llevar un general como la de un bicho gordo que de miedo y aporte presencia en mesa. Un núcleo central que junto con el proyecto del segundo mes (5 eslizones camaleón), son una buena base para construir la lista a su alrededor. Además, según he ido pintando, algo raro se ha apoderado de mí, ya que...
Age of Sigmar: Stormcast Eternals #2

Age of Sigmar: Stormcast Eternals #2

¡¡La campaña marcha viento en popa para los Stormcast Eternals!! tanto que este mes de febrero ya he terminado el plan de pintura de Marzo, el Lord Celestant. Es una de mis miniaturas favoritas de la colección de Stormcast, una de esas minis que hacen que empieces un ejército, y me lo he pasado genial pintándola, así que he aprovechado para hacer un paso a paso del proceso de pintura para que veáis como pinto los dorados y azules de mi ejército. Durante un periodo corto de tiempo, me planteé dedicarle varias semanas y pintarlo con metal no metálico, pero luego pensé….va a descuadrar con el resto del ejército ¡y mucho!. Así que decidí pintarlo como el resto. ¡A por él! Cómo pintar Stormcast Eternals de Age of Sigmar Para hacerlo más cómodo, después de retirar las rebabas y líneas de molde, decidí no pegar la capa y el pecho de la miniatura (y así poder pintar por partes con aerógrafo sin necesidad de volverme muy loco). Imprimé toda la miniatura con spray negro Chaos de GW y apliqué la primera capa de dorado con spray Retributor armour (también de GW).   Capa Protegí toda la pieza con Masking putty y empecé a trabajar la capa con aerógrafo. Para la parte exterior apliqué una base de Gris muralla de Vallejo para cubrir todo el dorado y dar un acabado clarito para poder trabajar el azul. Para este color apliqué una capa base de Azul Francés de vallejo, seguido de una sombra de Azul señal en la parte superior de la capa y a continuación una luz de Azul Andrea de Vallejo en la...
Age of Sigmar: Stormcast Eternals #1

Age of Sigmar: Stormcast Eternals #1

Uno de los principales motivos por los que un ejército no llega nunca a tocar una mesa de juego (al menos en mi caso) es la falta de planificación. Por propia experiencia puedo nombrar una interminable lista de proyectos sin acabar que descansan en alguna estantería o armario de mi casa. Por suerte, después de tanto tiempo en el hobby, aprendes que la constancia y una buena planificación, lo hace todo muuucho más fácil. Aprovechando que tengo listo mi plan de pintura para esta campaña, voy a escribir sobre algunos pasos que sigo para poder acabar lo que empiezo. Empieza un nuevo proyecto con un objetivo en mente Ya sea solo por ver unas pocas miniaturas en una vitrina, por acudir a un torneo concreto, o por jugar una partida con amigos en una fecha señalada, una de las cosas que más me ayuda a organizarme es tener un objetivo para una fecha límite. En este caso, participar en una campaña como esta, es ideal para marcarte objetivos… de hecho ¡¡ya vienen marcados!!. Mi objetivo al apuntarme a la campaña (aparte de disfrutar del hobby con amigos) es claro: QUIERO PINTAR MI EJÉRCITO DE STORMCAST ESTE AÑO. ¡¡Así que mi plazo es 1 año y mi objetivo 2000 puntos pintados!!. Pinta algo que de verdad te guste El impulso inicial para venirte arriba con un nuevo proyecto es realmente fácil de conseguir. Normalmente viene en forma de nuevas miniaturas que se acaban de poner a la venta, una lista de ejército que ha ganado un torneo, etc. Lo que he aprendido en este tiempo, es que ese impulso inicial, tiende a diluirse...
Scratch building: Italian tank

Scratch building: Italian tank

We have a new brilliant work from MorTap (you can visit his blog here). He shows us how to scratch build a couple of italian tanks with foamed PVC and other regular materials. Now you don’t have excuse to prepare your own armoured force! Hello everybody. In this tutorial we are going to build two italian tanks in 28mm (1:56): Semovenete 75/18 and Carro Commando. The idea is to use them to play Bolt Action. The most part of the people prefer to buy a tank rather than to scratch build one. However, it’s a pleasure to play with a tank create completely create by yourself. Indeed the materials are really cheap and we only need to spend some hours (in my case, several evenings but because I have built three at the same time!). Materials 2 and 4mm Foamed PVC or Forex PVC (plasticard) Tin sheet Different tubes (i.e. from cotton swab) Wire Silicon rod (from hot melt gun) Glue lids (or something similar, take a look at the pictures) First we cut the 4mm PVC in four pieces of 1.1 x 2.4 cm, and another one of de 5.5 x 2.7. Put together these five pieces following the picture. I have reinforce the corners with small buttresses. I have also cut some PVC stripes of 4x4mm that we can use to simulate the motor box and corners. I have closed the motor box with PVC (plasticard) and with 2mm PVC I have increase the high of the central area. Look the pictures. The cabin is made with a 2mm PVC square of 3.1 x 3.1cm. With a...
III Free Painting Day at Goblin Trader, Madrid – Weathering

III Free Painting Day at Goblin Trader, Madrid – Weathering

After some very interesting painting days about painting tanks and basic use of the airbrush, we’ve decided to organize a new one showing some advanced techniques: Weathering 15mm Tanks. The idea is very easy. Each student must bring a fully painted Battlefront tank in 1/100 (15mm) scale. In this painting day we will teach how to add weathering effects using typical techniques (although we’ll show some more advanced tricks too). DATE: Saturday 6th 2014. HOUR: From 11:00 to 19:30, stopping two hours for meal time. PLACE: Goblintrader Madrid. If you go by car, you can park easily and there is not any pay parking area. PRICE: FREE SEATS: 12 TOPICS: Filters, washes, chipping, streaks, tracks. REQUIREMENTS – TANK: Each person must bring 1 fully painted Battlefront tank in  1/100 (15mm): base layer (lighting if you wish, but it’s recommended), accessories and tracks (in neutral brown color, like Brown Beige from Vallejo). Add decals if you want to!!. It’s very important that the tank come varnished in satin or gloss. The tank could be of any period, theatre, army or type. To facilitate the weathering steps we recommend you paint the tank in only one color: green (soviet, us or british), panzer grey, dunkelgelb, etc. REQUIREMENTS – MATERIALS: Each person must bring brushes to apply the effects (one thin and other a little more thick), cotton swabs or makeup sponges, kitchen’s paper and a White Spirit/odorless thinner bottle. We will give you the Weathering products (filters, washes, pigments, etc.). People who have already been with us in other painting days know that the atmosphere is very nice, we teach the techniques to all students one by one, regardless their level. We always begin showing how to apply the techniques, following with each one personal...
How to make craters

How to make craters

Here we are with a new nice tutorial by our friend MorTap (check his blog here: El espacio de Atticus). This time MorTap shares how to prepare craters in a very easy (and cheap) way. Following the idea of decorating our table with small details which improve the atmosphere of the battle, I bring to you a simple tutorial to made craters. Recycling some stuff at the same time!. We will need old CDs, plasticard, modelling putty, foamed PVC and sand. We always have some disposable CDs at home. We can perfectly use them for this purpose!. With modelling putty we start preparing small spaghettis. Then we put on the CD’s forming circles of diferent sizes. These circles will be our craters! Indeed, we can place several circles on the same CD to recreate several concentrated impacts of the field artillery. With a small piece we can fill the gap of the disc. We spread the modelling clay and hide the slope in the center of the CD with more clay. With white glue diluted with water we fix the sand. We can use a mixture of different sizes to create a more realistic looking. We can prepare more elaborated craters adding some ruins. To create the ruins we can use foamed PVC or plasticard. In my case I have created a big cross with some slabs. We can easily texturize the foamed PVC with a modelling lancet or knife. We can draw geometric motifs on the cross and some squares on the slabs. I usually use a rock to press the PVC to get a nice texture. Then...
How paint dark brown bases

How paint dark brown bases

Today we have another guest in ModelBrush, our friend Iván “Groogh” who has prepared a fantastic tutorial about how to paint dark brown bases using Flames of War figures. In fact, you have to visit his blog: 15mmart.       A great platoon isn’t formed by well painted figures exclusively, realistic bases for our models are as important as the soldiers or tanks, because they help to enhance the final result. An elaborate base makes a difference, even when the paint of the figures isn’t really good. Let’s see how we can achieve nice dark brown bases very easily with just some paints and materials. I used for this guide two Pak 40 cannons of my Grenadierkompanie. I’m trying to situate the action in Russian spring, with dark brown sand and different kinds of vegetation. First of all, I placed the miniatures in the base, without glue, just searching the best position. Once I have the scheme in my mind, I removed the figures and started to work in the base. I use DAS clay for adding some lumps in the surface. DAS is really useful for this kind of low precision modeling; it’s cheap and easy to use. The terrains are never completely plains, and that is what I tried to achieve. When it was dry, I glued the miniatures to the base. The next step consisted in apply a mix of diluted white glue and sand homogeneous or the whole base. I utilized Chocolate Brown, Flat Earth and Green Ochre (Model Color) in successive layers to paint the sand. After adding the vegetation I painted with black the...
I Bolt Action Day at Goblin Trader, Madrid

I Bolt Action Day at Goblin Trader, Madrid

Hi guys! We’re doing, in two weeks, a Bolt Action Day with many free activities: demo games, a speed painting contest, a masterclass on how to paint a Panzer IV and more! This time it’s turn to focus on Bolt Action, the WW2 28mm game from Warlord Games. Many people here in Madrid interested in trying it, so we decided to dedicate a whole day to this really great and easy to learn game. WHERE: Goblintrader Madrid. Enrique Fuentes 22, Madrid. WHEN: Saturday, June 7th All the activities will be FREE. The schedule will be: 11:30 – Demo games (morning) 13:30 – Speed painting contest 14:30 – Meal timeee 17:00 – Demo games (evening) 18:30 – Painting class: Panzer IV We have the great sponsorship of Warlord Games and Vallejo paints, and maybe a couple more. Thanks all of you!! We’re working on the Speed Painting contest rules, so stay tuned, we’ll post them here when they’re ready. But some information: What to paint: a German Bolt Action Plastic soldier Completely free (mini, paints, glue, sand, white glue) You’ll only have to bring your paintbrushes! 60 minutes to: glue the mini, paint it and decorate the base From 13:30 to 14:30 3 zones: Painting, Basing and Priming. Priming and Basing zones will be shared Only 15 seats available! The prizes: painting sets from Vallejo (new wargames range) and Warlord blisters. The Panzer IV painting will consist of: Priming Dunkelgelb (Dark yellow) base coat Lighting with Color Modulation Technique Green and Brown camo Decals Washes with enamels Chipping Painting tracks and details Streaks Varnish Pigments So, if you’re in Madrid...
Lost Temple in 28mm – Part II

Lost Temple in 28mm – Part II

Finally, the second part of the fantastic scenery element, The Lost Temple, created by MorTap. In this post you can find how to build mountains and the frontal part. You have to see it!. Here you can find the first part: The lost temple – Part I From Mortap: MOUNTAIN To build this element we will need: Four 8x8x8 inches FOAM pieces Plasticard pieces for the floor White FOAM like filler Natural cork to recreate the rocks Filler putty Plastic plants to decorate We’ll prepare two mountain elements to flank the temple. First, we prepare the structure of each mountain with two pieces with an L shape. Then we fill the L with natural cork to create a rock aspect. We use white glue to easily fix the cork. We fill the spaces between corks with filler and we create additional textures. Once it’s dried, we prime the element with black, for example. Then we paint the full element in grey and brown colors using the dry-brush technique. Finally, we use some plastic plants to give life to our model. And this is the the final result. As you can see, both elements fits perfectly one beside the other. FRONTSPIECE To build this element we will need: A 8 x 2,5 x 1 inches FOAM piece for the wall Four natural cork taps (from wine bottle) for the columns Four 6 x 4 x0,4 inches FOAMED PVC for the trims We prepare the stairs in the middle of the wall. We can also sculpt some bricks. With the remaining pieces we can prepare the stairs. With the cork taps...
Lost Temple in 28mm, Part I

Lost Temple in 28mm, Part I

Once again, we show you a fantastic tutorial by MorTap, who teaches us how to prepare some interesting scenery elements inspired by Centro-American cultures. Using cheap materials and easy techniques, we can prepare an outstanding game table! From Mortap: My idea was to prepare a small monument for the Scratch Attack scenery conquest, focused on the Nemesis game. But I wanted to take advantage of this work and use these elements in other games closer to me, such as Bolt Action (at some point I should learn the rules). With so much time to think, and no so much time to build, the project gets out of my hands, and from the original idea of only one piece, I finally prepared a big Temple. Lastly I had to give up the Project, because I’ll be adding more and more elements in a neverending construction madness! 🙂 The materials I have used are too easy to find: Polystyrene for insulation purposes: it’s too dense and therefore too easy to work, and importantly, is cleaner than the typical “white cork” Natural cork Some “white cork” pieces to use like filler Eva rubber to decorate the animals Plastic vegetation from asian suppliers Plastic remnants from a plastic banner Now, be prepared for the construction phase. THE FRONTAGE I use two pieces of polystyrene: 8×8 inches (floor) and 8×6 inches (frontal). First of all, we mark the bricks with a rule and a pencil. Then, using different tools, like rocks, we create the texture on the surface. In the frontal piece we use the rule and pencil again to mark the bricks, and...
II Free Painting Day at Goblin Trader, Madrid

II Free Painting Day at Goblin Trader, Madrid

Hi all! Because of the success of the I Painting Session months ago, we’re now going to do a second one! Of course, at Goblin Trader in Madrid. This time we’re going to focus on the people who just bought an airbrush or those who are going to buy one. We can name this session as Airbrush for Beginners. It’s NOT for people who knows how to paint with an airbrush. It’ll be a completely free one-day course, with 6-7 hours and a very very special offer for the people who want a medium-high end airbrush: you can come and get a Harder & Steenbeck Ultra for only 60€, more than 30% off the retail price. It’s a unique offer!!. Of course, the people who already have an airbrush doesn´t need to pay anything. But wait, things are becoming more interesting here… not only you will get a free 6-7 hours course… but you’ll get one of the new plastic tanks from Battlefront. That’s right! Completely free! We’ll teach all the lessons with these great tanks. Oh, but… wait… more things?? Yes!! You don’t have to bring any paints! We’ll bring them for all of you! You will only need cleaning products (alcohol, brushes, etc.) and the desire to learn new things! Information and schedule: Place: Goblin Trader Madrid. C/ Enrique Fuentes 22, 28026 Madrid Date: April 26th 2014 Price: FREE!! 11:30-14:30 – 1st session Lunch Time! 16:30-19:30 – 2nd session And the course outline: Airbrush types Airbrush internals Disassembling and assembling the airbrush Cleaning the airbrush Basic techniques Dilutions and paint types Priming your tank Color base Basic...
Weathering on 28mm Bolt Action Hetzer – Part II

Weathering on 28mm Bolt Action Hetzer – Part II

While ago we show you a fantastic tutorial Jose Luís Diaz “Porta”, about how recreate a disc camouflage in a Hetzer tank, using the Bolt Action model in 28mm (1:56). Now, you can enjoy the second part: the weathering. You can read the first part of the article following this link: http://www.modelbrush.com/ambush-camouflage-on-28mm-bolt-action-hetzer Once we have painted the camouflage, we can start applying the weathering effects. But first, we should paint some details. 1. Now we paint the tracks. First we apply a mixture of brown, grey and black, which provides us a proper tone for the metal, and then we paint the wheels in brown and green, such as the pattern showed in the book. 2. We prepare with some airbrushing inks a couple of tones which can serve as filters when they are applied by airbrush. These filters will unify a little the different tones we have used in the camouflage. Therefore, the tones will be something between the three different colors: green, brown and yellow. 3. We paint the BalkenKreuz in both sides using a brush, stencil or decals. Once we have finished the “basic pahse” of color, we can start with the weathering effects. 4. First, we have to define panels and details using the Tamiya panel line accent colors. We can use different tones of brown and black to get more interesting points. Once they are dry to the touch, we can remove the excess with a brush moistened in solvent. 5. On a carboard we put a selection of oils. The colors selected should be complementary to the colors used in the vehicle (in...
Indiegogo: Lowe 1:48 tank from Heer46

Indiegogo: Lowe 1:48 tank from Heer46

Heer46 has just announced a new Indegogo project to finance a new vehicle in 1:48 or 28mm: a Panzerkampfwagen Löwe, with different gun options. Click here to see the Indegogo project: http://www.indiegogo.com/projects/loewe-1-48 An extract: You will be able to choose from two Löwe-versions: Version 1 is the standard Panzerkampfwagen Löwe with a 10,5 cm gun. Version 2 is the Flak-Löwe armed with a 5,5cm Twin-Flak. Stretchgoal 1 = 2.000€ Each Löwe-kit gets an „UHU“ IR-system for free. Stretchgoal 2 = 4.000€ Both Löwe-versions get an additional alternate cannon for free. The difference is purely optical, but fits in perfectly with a certain „dustified“ game. Version 1 Alternate cannon for the standard Panzerkampfwagen Löwe. Version 2 Alternate cannon for the Flak-Löwe. Stretchgoal 3 = 6.000€ Each tank needs a tank-commander. Each Löwe-kit gets one tank-commander “Max Wünsche” for free. The miniature is made of metal and in 28mm/1:48 scale. Share:Haz clic para compartir en Facebook (Se abre en una ventana nueva)Haz clic para compartir en Twitter (Se abre en una ventana nueva)Haz clic para compartir en Google+ (Se abre en una ventana nueva)Haz clic para enviar por correo electrónico a un amigo (Se abre en una ventana nueva)Haz clic para imprimir (Se abre en una ventana...
Spain in Flames V2 released!

Spain in Flames V2 released!

We are glad to announce the new version of Spain in Flames, designed to play the Spanish Civil War, and directed by Ivan and Ignacio Notario. Inspired in the briefing books of Flames of War, inside you could find all army list to play the Spanish conflict, plus aditional rules from Capitan games to play small scale skirmishes. Some authors notes: There are in total 15 army lists: EPR Agrupación de Milicianos Compañía de Carros Compañía de Carros Pesados Compañía de Blindados Compañía de la Guardia de Asalto Batallón del Ejército Popular Batallón de las Brigadas Internacionales Ejército nacional Centuria Falangista Compañía del Requeté Compañía de Fusiles de la Legión Compañía de Regulares Compañía de Fusiles Nacional Compañía de Carros Legión Condor Compañía Fucilieri In addition, there are new things, such as new armament: “pichis”, flamethrowers, grenades “revientatrincheras”, etc. Some curiosities, like the “true” story of the nickname “negrillo”, and new special rules (“la victoria es nuestra”, “detente bala”, “Sindicato Español de universitarios”…). Some examples which you can fin inside Spain in Flames: Share:Haz clic para compartir en Facebook (Se abre en una ventana nueva)Haz clic para compartir en Twitter (Se abre en una ventana nueva)Haz clic para compartir en Google+ (Se abre en una ventana nueva)Haz clic para enviar por correo electrónico a un amigo (Se abre en una ventana nueva)Haz clic para imprimir (Se abre en una ventana...
Happy New Year 2014 from the ModelBrush Team!

Happy New Year 2014 from the ModelBrush Team!

Hi readers! We wish you all a Happy New Year and hope that 2014 gives you health, work… and many finished projects! 😉 For us, 2014 will be a very special year. Many new and interesting projects, including a new scenery brand, great tanks from the best brands, a new range of painting videotutorials and exciting battles of Flames of War, Bolt Action and other great games. Wish you all the best in this new year 2014… Share:Haz clic para compartir en Facebook (Se abre en una ventana nueva)Haz clic para compartir en Twitter (Se abre en una ventana nueva)Haz clic para compartir en Google+ (Se abre en una ventana nueva)Haz clic para enviar por correo electrónico a un amigo (Se abre en una ventana nueva)Haz clic para imprimir (Se abre en una ventana...
Scratch building: Junkers Ju 52 in 28mm by MorTap

Scratch building: Junkers Ju 52 in 28mm by MorTap

Merry Christmas!. Some time ago we presented you an impressive work from our friend MorTap, who showed us how to build Old West houses using foamed PVC. Now, once more, MorTap presents another awesome work, a Junkers Ju 52 in 28mm!. Because the great versatility of the foamed PVC, in this ocassion I pretended to build something different, a Junkers Ju 52 in 28mm. But I decided to build it in a smaller size, in order to avoid to place an enormous element in the battlefield, which can disturb rather than beautify the game. Materials: 2 and 4mm foamed PVC High density cork Three plastic caps Four sticks of lollipops Wire Small pin or button Using scaled blueprints, we start cutting the different pieces of the plane body. You can find the sizes used expressed in centimeters. The foamed PVC is too easy to “sculpt” using a model knife or pencil. Now, we start preparing the roof. “No sirve” = ‘it’s not necessary’ (the internal area). Note the roof is preceded by an inclined panel in both sides. Once the roof is completed, we prepare the cockpit. To simulate the rotors of the plane, I find these interesting caps from juice jars!. We will need three of them. But first, we have to mount the wings. Prepare this to fix the rotors made with cork. We apply a light coat of primer to cover the high cork and thus facilitate the painting phase. We can use cork and the “table” used in the pizzas to build the weels. We use a button to build the rear wheel. Finally, we paint our...
Ambush camouflage on 28mm Bolt Action Hetzer – Part I

Ambush camouflage on 28mm Bolt Action Hetzer – Part I

Another great collaboration, in this occasion from our friend Jose Luís Diez “Porta”, who shows us how recreate the mythic ambush camouflage used in Hetzer tanks, using the Bolt Action model in 28mm (1:56). We are going to paint our Hetzer with a camouflage pattern with disc shapes, characteristic of the final years of the war, when it was needed German tank hunters go unnoticed. In order to recreate this kind of camouflage, we’ll need so much patience. Technically is not complicated, indeed, probably it’s more complicated painting a tritonal camouflage with fuzzy edges to hand raised. 1. I  start applying the essential primer layer. In this case I´ve used grey color to get a neutral base to the three colors.2. After studying with attention the documentation, and above all the camouflage pattern in different views (I’ve use the material provide in the 1:48 Hetzer kit from Tamiya), I decide apply first a general layer of green color, because the total amount of this color and because his distribution. Like base color I use Olivegrün H405 from Hobby color, diluted with isopropanol (fast dry and fine spray).3. I apply lights with two green from AK-Interactive, 716 and 715, both from the German Late War Color set. I apply smooth transitions, following a zenith illumination, but without generating too contrast (in my opinión, excess contrast can muddy the final result in this kind of camouflage). I apply the last light in rivets and hatches, using AK 715 and pastel green 885 (Vallejo). 4. Now it starts the fun….with a 2mm puncher and mask tap from Tamiya we prepare a lot...
Building an Old West store

Building an Old West store

Today we have a great honor, because we have the collaboration of one great modeler, MorTap (you can visit his blog). He’s a master using foamed PVC and in this occasion he’ll show us how he creates Old West style buildings. In a moment of constructive epiphany, after several projects finished, I decided to increase the buildings we have for the settlement of the West in 28mm that we normally use. In this case, a small shop, denominated Store General. Materials and measurements: 2mm Forex or Foamed PVC: floor (15 x 14cm), back wall (15 x 9 cm), frontage (15 x 13cm), side walls and interior (x3 pieces of 11,6 x 9 cm) and roof (18 x 12 cm). In addition, we have to prepare a strip of 0,2 cm wide and cut it in x15 pieces of 2,5 cm, x2 pieces of 5cm and x2 pieces of 15 cm. These small pieces will be used to decorate the house. 4mm Forex or Foamed PVC: x9 pieces of 3 x 0,5 cm, in order to prepare the basement. Once you have cut all pieces, apply a texture with a modeling lancet, and cut doors and the picture window. Apply a texture on the roof. We can prepare a flat or gabled roof. Put together the structure, and glue the decoration as you can see in the picture. Save x5 pieces of 2,5 x 0,2 cm. These small pieces will be needed to support the roof and to give him a gabled form. However, if you want a gabled roof, you will have to prepare two new pieces with a...
HeresyBrush Forum Painting Conquest 1st editon

HeresyBrush Forum Painting Conquest 1st editon

Our sister community, HereyBrush, is organizing a painting conquest of 28mm miniatures, with the assistance of Empress Miniatures, and it’s absolutely free! I have the pleasure to announce the first HeresyBrush forum painting contest with the assistance of Empress Miniatures. On the occasion of this new event, we have two categories where you can submit any 28mm miniature from the Empress Miniatures ranges. The two categories are: Best Single Miniature Best Squad (at least 4 figures) RULES: Participation is on-line and completely free. To participate you just have to send your contact information (name and e-mail) and at least three photos of each work to: heresybrush@gmail.com There is no limit on number of entries and a participant may submit as many works as they want. However, repeated works are not permitted. If you present a miniature in the category Best Single Miniature, you can’t present the same figure as part of a squad in the other category. It is OK if miniatures have been shown previously here or elsewhere online. You can’t use Photosop or similar software to improve your photos, except to adjust the white balance. Titles or labels are not allowed. Also, you have to present individual photos. Collages are not allowed. The deadline for all entries is October 1, 2013. The winners will be announced a week from then. PRIZES There will be only two winners, one for each category. Each winner will receive three regular packs of their choice from any of the Empress Miniatures ranges. Good luck all!. Share:Haz clic para compartir en Facebook (Se abre en una ventana nueva)Haz clic para compartir en...
PaintingWAR: German army WWII

PaintingWAR: German army WWII

When we start a new project we often spend many hours looking up information. However, this can change thanks to the new magazine PaintingWAR, which reviews an army in a specific way. In each project a different painter explains his techniques and painting style throughout 20 pages, where you can follow his steps. Next you could see between 20 and 40 rosters with a painted miniature, with his color chart, historical curiosities and more painting tips. You also could find more interesting material, such as colors of German epaulettes or NCO’s symbols. Nonetheless, this project isn’t only a uniformology guide, but the idea is help you to improve, if it’s possible, your painting skills. First issue, written by one collaborators of this blog (HeresyBrush), is about the German army during the Second World War. This issue includes 36 rosters and a lot of “step by step” guides, including a review of almost all German camouflages. You can find this magazine in your regular Wargames retailer, or you can purchase it directly in his online shop: BreakingWAR. Also, Justin from ModelDad has prepared this interesting review (thank you!): Share:Haz clic para compartir en Facebook (Se abre en una ventana nueva)Haz clic para compartir en Twitter (Se abre en una ventana nueva)Haz clic para compartir en Google+ (Se abre en una ventana nueva)Haz clic para enviar por correo electrónico a un amigo (Se abre en una ventana nueva)Haz clic para imprimir (Se abre en una ventana...